This year, the Calla—a symbol of the house of Vhernier—is celebrating 20 years as an icon in the jewelry world.
The single-element design, often modeled in a sequence, has become one of Vhernier’s most notable shapes. Inspired by the shape of the calla lily, the Calla has been crafted in different materials over the years, yet with each variation it continues to maintain its charm and strength.
After an extended period of research, a simple, archetypal shape was retained—a pure abstraction true to the DNA of the brand, which is rooted in sculpture and contemporary art.
“Volume, femininity, and lightness are the characteristics of all Vhernier jewels and are clearly evident in the Calla design,” says Carlo Traglio, President of Vhernier. “Femininity always translates into soft and smooth shapes that, despite the magnitude of the surfaces, are nevertheless minimalistic and understated.”
The original drawing of the Calla dates back to 1998. The very first version of the necklace was conceived with a warm rose gold, which is frequently used by the brand for its ability to blend well with all skin tones.
To avoid breaking the sequence of links, the necklace was designed with a seamless integrated clasp that works just like a screw and is located inside one of the links. The use of invisible closures is a trait of Vhernier; the brand’s craftsmen invented a seemingly simple yet complex mechanism to achieve this result.
Calla also owes its extraordinary success to its choice of materials—such as ebony, a precious wood, shaped by the same excellent artisans who cut and work on precious stones. Combined with Vhernier’s elegant rose gold, the intense color of the ebony produces a fascinating visual shock. For this reason, the Calla has always represented a true turning point in the jewelry world: its very unusual materials showcase their natural beauty alongside high-caliber craftsmanship. “The gold and ebony version is undoubtedly the most beloved one, and for us it represents perfection,” affirms Traglio. “It’s light, seductive, and contemporary. And above all, it’s beautiful to touch.”
Over the years the Calla collection has been reproduced in a number of materials and forms. The necklace, the most iconic, was followed by the more casual yet equally sophisticated pendant, which is made up of three or five Calla links dangling from a rubber cord. It has been crafted using an array of materials, including ebony, warm rose gold, brilliant diamonds, kogolong (a volcanic white stone from Afghanistan), and, more recently, titanium.
In celebration of the 20th-year milestone, Vhernier has launched two new lines within the Calla collection. The first, the mesmerizing Eyeliner Pavé, features a brand new diamond setting with stones of different sizes embedded into a rhodium-colored base to create a dramatic look. The brand has also debuted an innovative line of aluminum Calla necklaces and pendants. Aluminum, although extremely difficult to treat during the fusion and stone-setting phases, offers an extraordinary lightness and allows for exceptional range of colors, including black, blue, violet, orange, green, and red. Intense and concentrated hues give life to jewels that are feminine and almost provocative, attracting the eye with their absolute originality. And so the Calla continues to bloom.