Plating the Town Red

“REALLY, WE HAVE about 80 percent of regulars…ah, one second, please.” Alireza Niroomand, the general manager of SoHo’s Sant Ambroeus, pops out of his seat. With a gazelle’s shuffle, he crosses the marble floor of the restaurant and intercepts a young Dorothy Dandridge–type on her way out. He teases her about her new boyfriend, with …