Diesel Black Gold: Fall 2014

by Alex R. Travers

Diesel Black Gold Fall 2014 Men'sOnce designers are expected to successfully translate the codes of a fashion house using traces of their own creative DNA, it’s usually that much harder for them to do so. Luckily, the prototype for Diesel Black Gold’s Andreas Melbostad at Pitti Uomo’s 85th edition was not his first collection for the label but rather a foray into its men’s wear. (“It’s my first collection for men,” he said.) Since the Norwegian designer’s women’s shows have won much praise, hopes were high when the Pitti news leaked back in October. All eyes were on Melbostad.

What came out today was something to treasure. While the clothes reflected the studded, glossy DBG aesthetic, there was a sui generis sense of inventiveness to them, especially in the textures of the leathers and the denims. Melbostad’s were ribbed, distressed, and oil slick. But he often paired them with sober tops, like high-neck wool jackets, black blazers, and classic knit wear. The models’ hair and make up were natural, too. It was all part of the designer’s clever tightrope walk: uniting slick and soft in one piece; paring together color-blocked knits with waxy leathers that vibrantly spoke Black Gold’s language; combining shine and matte, foil and fur, black and white, uniformity and rebellion. That’s why there were women—Marine Deleeuw and company—out on the runway in clothes that reassured the brand’s grounded glam-rock philosophy. Or maybe they were just sexy seductresses that fit into Melbostad’s dystopian world. Either way, we saw a Diesel Black Gold he made all his own.