Fashion Week: Day 2

by Alex R. Travers

Nautica


The critical response to Nautica is that they’re no longer the new kid in town. I say, so what? To celebrate their 30th anniversary, creative director Chris Cox sent energy down the runway in the form of fire red coats, bright yellow parkas, and merino sweaters. Frustratingly, the energy came and went. I enjoyed the asymmetrical bombers and merino turtlenecks, but the active nylon pants and wool sweats were worked to death.

 Monika Chiang

“My inspiration for Fall/Winter 2013 began with a recurring dream I’ve been having for years,” says Monika Chiang. She goes on to talk about a bird exhibition at MOMA and thoughts about military and aviator uniforms. I’ll spare you. But what emerged from this was a stellar collection that kept the audience buzzing. Port leather leggings paired well with strappy heels. Army mini dresses were worth savoring. Her tailoring was topnotch and the jewelry was something really special. At one point in the presentation, I leaned in and asked one of the models about her gold pieces: “it’s a gold wing bib and a hand shield,” she said coyly. Jaw-dropping!

 Rebecca Minkoff

My conflicted feelings about Rebecca Minkoff keep nagging at me. The clothing truly embraces the modern women, yet the looks often feel overly tomboyish. Don’t get me wrong. Minkoff’s a fiery hot designer and her collections never fail to fascinate. This time around was no different. The separates were solid; the prints popped. But her “causal layering” can sometimes be a lot for the eye to handle. Scene-stealing 360-degree view looks—a kirk dress in comet and a satellite dress in mars—reminded me of what Rei Kawakubo sent down the runway for Comme Des Garçon’s Fall 2012 collection. Minkoff’s Fall 2013 show nailed sophisticated grunge, but it left out the deep magic of a great runway show.

 Lorry Newhouse

Since her debut with last year’s hit fall collection, Lorry Newhouse looks continue to put new luster on the word stunning. A burgundy ribbon lace cocktail dress gave the Fall 2013 collection the jolt it needed. Crimsons and reds ran rampant. I would have liked to see more colors, but still, everything had finesse. Also worth noting: a black and grey knit bolero jacket with a sleeveless dress.