by Alex R. Travers
For their Fall 2013 collection, Ruffian boys Brian Wolk and Claude Morais revisit the 19th century Bowery, where vice and entertainment thrive. But some of the romantic images they try to marry with their current collection stumble upon each other. Rather than accent the prints, hats and tassels clash over busy patterns. I liked the black and floral peplum jackets, but could have done without the boy blouses. Still, the opening look, a purple chalk-stripe suit with a floral mini skirt worn over the pants, was a stunner.
Rebecca Taylor is at her best here, chalking up another boundary-stretching collection, but this time, with an androgynous edge. Biker jackets, leather tees, and charcoal vests have replaced the floral prints from past collections. She’s gone from girly to gritty without losing her personal aesthetic. A plum knit crocodile sweatshirt with a leather pencil skirt held me in thrall.
Artist duo Les Lalanne—best known for sculpting surreal animals and vegetation—don’t see the world the way the rest of us do. Neither does Max Azria. For his Herve Leger Fall 2013 collection, gardens of urban expression crafted by Lalanne inspired the hallucinatory brilliance sent down the runway. It was fun getting lost in the prints on the dresses and leggings. The bandage zip-skirts and jackets were smart; the crop tops were sexy. But, Max, my man, what’s with the hats?
Sporty. Pragmatic. Puny words to describe the indelible images Amy Smilovic invented for Tibi’s Fall 2013 line. While the gifted Smilovic prides herself on making functional clothes, her artistic abilities—especially when it comes to layering—are worth noting. The slouchy pants and pencil skirts stood out this season. So did the utility tops and sculpted silhouettes. This collection sticks.