Gucci: Fall 2014

by Alex R. Travers

GUC_0448.450x675Frida Giannini was a mere glimpse in God’s eye when Gucci launched its first ready-to-wear line in 1967. But, for her latest collection, she felt the need to materialize the essence of the brand. More to the point, she wanted to dress a specific type of woman: “A woman who dresses to please herself rather than others,” she said.

No doubt, Giannini accomplished that with her shaggy blue and pink shearling coats (very luxurious) and classic A-line dresses, most of which were belted at the waist. There was, in fact, a strong Sixties vibe to the entire show. But the way her clothes mirrored the times energized them. Here you could say that Giannini’s girls looked a bit like the “birds” who used to bang on David Bailey’s door (I wonder if she’s seen Blow-Up?). Expect that her collection updated the quintessential Quantian silhouettes—the smock, the A-line—and packed them with sass: the sleeveless dresses in powdery pink, say, or Zuzanna Bijoch’s strappy shift with a buttery leather bodice. It was tremendously exciting, as well, to see Giannini transform classic Gucci loafers into snakeskin boots and give the Jackie bags a facelift.