by Alex R. Travers
J.W. Anderson is in a playful, prickly mood here, subverting tradition and perfecting his awesomely wayward silhouettes for the pre-season. LVMH Moët Hennessy, who last year took a minority stake in the J.W. Anderson brand, is flying high, too: not only have they tapped J Dub to design for Loewe, a Spanish fashion house known for its leather goods, but he’s starting to make more accessories for his namesake line as well. That means more money. But it also means that the world will be introduced to J.W. Anderson, one of the most fascinating designers working today.
For his resort collection, the décolletage tops sit low and run long, as if he’s using skin and the collarbone as part of the design. Three-quarter sleeves are put on like leg warmers or gloves, and tubular skirts with slashed fronts start above the belly button and end below the ankle. The combined result lengthens the body and seems to challenge the conventions of traditional dressing. Not many but Anderson could find the adrenaline rush in such a brilliantly twisted adjustment of lines and proportions.
Anderson’s skill as a designer hasn’t waned. Even the sartorially deviant garment—only one this time: a banker’s shirt rolled up, twisted, and clipped at the front, covering only the forearms and breasts—is expertly executed. Best of all are the netlike tops and skirts, chaotic canvases of techno tweed asymmetrically draped and held together by strands of a frayed, stringy fabric. Colored with the same patches of red, black, white, and yellow as a coral snake, their eye-catching patterns add to the appeal.