Nonoo: Fall 2014

by Alex R. Travers

_LKV6414.450x675In rethinking architect Louis Kahn’s design philosophy on natural light and space, Misha Nonoo made sure to do the right thing: not over complicate it. And that made one sharp metaphor for a collection that—emphasized by transparency, line, and color—underscored purity and simplicity.

The crux of Kahn’s style, however, was marked by its “monumental and monolithic” characteristics (thanks Wiki). He never masked the weight of his creations. Yet Nonoo’s Fall 2014 showcase was, ultimately, feminine and delicate. So, where she drew inspiration from was the architect’s weaving and splicing techniques, which you could see in her raglan-knit sweater with interwoven panels and metallic ribbing, for example, or the honeycomb mesh pencil skirts. Or even the Georgette sheaths with organza panels that revealed flashes of flesh. The designer has already visited some of these ideas, organza windows and rich textures, in the past. But in creating this collection, it seemed, she revisited her archives to reanimate a whole lot more: a blushing ruby wool coat; a tectonic crêpe de Chine and illume cotton dress; a silk top with sheer trim; and, as always, the feminine nonchalance of an immaculately dressed woman. Nonoo said they were women with timeless appeal. Romance seemed their obvious intention. But what would be their destiny?