Wrapping Up Men’s Fashion Week

Pitti Uomo, Milan’s biannual men’s trade show, was kicked off last week, showcasing the Spring/Summer 2013 collections of over a thousand of the biggest names in menswear. Among those presenting was Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian designer best known for his well-tailored, effortlessly trendy looks. This season is all about layering the classics and creating completely new textures–a jean jacket with a killer khaki blazer, or a down vest with a thin raincoat. Punctuate these neutrals with a plaid dress shirt or suede shoes.

Moncler Gamme Bleu‘s looks are informed by the traditions and styles of the sporting life, with this season’s collection “sporting” a distinctly nautical theme. These crisp looks go beyond your typical boat shoes and stripes; designer Thom Browne spares no expense, often attaching sail-like swathes of fabric that billow from the models’ shoulders. If this doesn’t inspire you to set sail this summer, we don’t know what will.

Meanwhile, across the Channel in London, Thom Browne gave us a sneak preview of the 2013 Spring/Summer collection of his eponymous line in quintessential English form. The models arrived wielding black umbrellas on a Harrods double-decker bus before descending like tin soldiers onto the street.

The models were dressed uniformly in gray and white seersucker suits, with matching ties to boot. Upon closer inspection, the suits and accessories varied very slightly, displaying Thom Browne’s penchant for detail. The suggestion of a prep-school uniform was evident throughout the presentation, from their arrival on a bus to the cropped hems of their striped pants. The cropped hem is a look pioneered by Thom Browne several years ago that has now become commonplace on and off the catwalk. Sporty, classic looks have dominated the runways of Men’s Fashion Week, and Thom Browne’s new collection has been blazing the trail.

This presentation was merely a teaser, and we will be intently watching his show in Paris later this month. But for now, it looks like this American designer and his prep school look-alikes may be able to teach Savile Row a thing or two about great suits.

Burberry Prorsum unveiled a collection of looks that brilliantly incorporates neon metallic accents in their traditional fine tailoring. If Browne and Cucinelli hearken back to days gone by, this line plunges boldly into the future. Designer Christopher Bailey pairs the metallic accents with prints in muted colors, successfully avoiding any garishness in his ensembles. Burberry is one of the many designers to bring back the bomber jacket this season, and we certainly aren’t complaining about the renaissance of this classic spring staple. –MEGAN MALLOY